Destination Reviews Gubbio

View of Gubbio from Mount Ingino

Written by
Bonnie Rubin

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Gubbio: Something for Everyone off the Beaten Path

I was on my way from Florence to Tuscany on Good Friday and heard about an ancient tradition called “Processional of the Dead Christ” taking place that evening in Gubbio.  It sounded so unique and interesting; I made a last-minute detour to Gubbio to check it out.  It was a great decision – I was delighted to discover that Gubbio is full of ancient history, quaint streets to wander and mountains to climb.  

The procession itself was a unique event that I never imagined seeing in modern times.  

The Bottom Line

This quaint village in Umbria, Italy is a wonderful place to spend 2-3 days.  It is a few hours by car from Florence and is the perfect blend of historical landmarks, picturesque landscapes, and authentic Italian experiences.

Gubbio is a great option as a home base if you have a car and want to start exploring off the beaten track of Italy.  

Getting There

From Florence:  If you are renting a car in Italy, Gubbio is a little over 2 hours from Florence.  There are also several options of buses or bus-train combinations.  The train-bus ride is approximately 6 hours and takes you through some of the stunning Italian countryside. 

From Rome:  This is also an excellent starting point for a visit to Gubbio.  The drive is about 2-1/2 hours and the bus-train option that is about 4 hours.  If you don’t have a car, then taking the train-bus from Rome to Gubbio is a great option.

Things to Do

Gubbio has numerous options of things to do and will appeal to visitors of all ages and interests.  Because of this vast variety of activities, I divided my recommendations into:

  1.  Historical
  2. Special Events and Holidays
  3. Nature and Outdoor Activities
  4. Culinary Delights

Historical

  1. Palazzo dei Consoli: A Stroll Back Through Time

    Begin your day by exploring the Palazzo dei Consoli. This historical architectural masterpiece was built in the 14th century and is considered one of the most significant buildings from the Middle Ages.  Not only is it a testament to Gubbio’s rich past  but it also contains numerous architectural marvels. Now a museum, it is worth spending some time admiring the intricately designed façades at the artwork.

  2. Gubbio’s Roman Theater: Where History Comes Alive

    The Roman Theater in Gubbio offers a fascinating glimpse into the town’s ancient roots.  If you love visiting ancient ruins, then this one is for you!  The theater was constructed in 1st century and sat almost 6000 people.  You can explore the remains and easily imagine the theatrical performances that took place over 2000 years ago.

  3. Piazza Grande: A Hub of Vibrancy and Festivities

    The Piazza Grande serves as the heart of Gubbio Encircled by medieval buildings, this central square offers a the perfect setting for a leisurely stroll and also serves as the central meeting place for local events and festivals. The Piazza Grande immerses travelers in the authentic atmosphere of Gubbio.

Wooden prisms carried during La Festa dei Ceri

Pipe Organ at Basilica of Sant' Ubaldo

Special Events and Holidays

Gubbio has a rich history of community and spirituality.  The events below offer a glimpse into the town’s traditions and culture.
 
  1. Festa dei Ceri:  A unique athletic contest

    The Festa dei Ceri, a spectacular palio (athletic contest of a historical nature), is a celebration deeply ingrained in the traditions of Gubbio. Held annually on the 15th of May (this day marks the anniversary of the death of Saint Ubaldo), this event draws locals and visitors alike to witness displays of devotion and competition.

    The festival revolves around three teams, each representing a different saint: Sant’Ubaldo, Sant’Antonio, and San Giorgio.  The teams wear traditional attire of various colors, depending on their Saint and compete in a race through the town, surrounded by onlookers cheering and clapping.

    The climax of the event involves a thrilling run up the mountain from the main square to the Basilica of Sant’ Ubaldo, each team carrying a statue of their respective patron saint. The twist is that the statue is attached to a 13 foot long beautifully carved wooden prism, weighing over 800 pounds.  The teams carry the prism with the statute on stretcher boards through the city. The climax of the event involves a run up the mountain from the main square to the Basilica of Sant’ Ubaldo.

  2. Processional of the Dead Christ: Centuries-Old Tradition and Symbolism

    On Good Friday, Gubbio becomes a stage for a poignant and centuries-old procession that is unlike anything I have seen.  This event features hooded penitents marching through the historic streets of the town. While it may bear an unfortunate visual resemblance to an American KKK rally, the symbolism behind these cone-shaped white hoods couldn’t be more different.  In fact, this procession originated 3 centuries before the KKK even existing. 

    The hooded figures in Gubbio represent a profound message of equality in the eyes of God. This tradition serves as a powerful reminder that everyone – regardless of age, wealth, or race – is considered equal in the eyes of the divine. The procession takes place against the backdrop of historic landmarks, including the Duomo (Cathedral) and the Church of San Francesco, enhancing its cultural and historical significance.

  3. Christmas Tree on Mount Ingino

    The festive light installation stretches over 2,000 feet (more than five football fields) up the slopes of Mount Ingino.   This giant tree can be viewed from as far as 30 miles away. 

    When:  December 7th (on the eve of the feast of the Immaculate Conception) through the first week of January.

Processional of the Dead Christ image 5

Processional of the Dead Christ

Processional of the Dead Christ image 2

Processional of the Dead Christ

Nature and Outdoor Activities

  1. Mount Ingino: Hiking Heights with Panoramic Rewards

    If you love outdoor adventures, then Gubbio has you covered! Mount Ingino rises majestically on the horizon, inviting travelers to ascend its slopes and enjoy breathtaking panoramic views. There are hiking opportunities various for all skill levels. As you reach the summit, the expansive vistas unfold and offer an spectacular view of the Umbria countryside.

  2. Funicular – a “Must Do” activity!

    There is a “funicular” in Gubbio called “La Funivia Colle Eletto.” It is the most unique form of transportation I have ever experienced and I can best describe it as, a “bird cage/basket/ski-lift” that transports you to the top of Mount Ingino.  The cage fits 2 people and takes you on a short ride to see the Basilica of Sant’Ubaldo on Mount Ingino and a beautiful panoramic view. The ride is about 6 minutes and was a lot of fun and definitely a unique experience!

    From the Basilica, you can take a hiking path if you want to go further up the mountain further to explore Rocche di Gubbio, an ancient fortress.

Culinary Delights

  1. Traditional Umbrian Cuisine: A Gastronomic Journey

    No visit to Gubbio is complete without savoring the delights of traditional Umbrian cuisine. From locally sourced truffles to hearty pasta dishes, the town’s culinary offerings reflect the richness of its agricultural heritage. Explore authentic restaurants that serve up a taste of Umbria on every plate, allowing your palate to be delighted by the flavors that define this region.

    TIP:  Gubbio and the surrounding areas are known for their truffles.  There are several stores offering a variety of truffle products.   If truffles are your thing, there are even “truffle hunting” tours available (I didn’t do this activity, but here is an example of a tour you can take:  Truffle Hunting Tour

    Local Markets: A Feast for the Senses

    Indulge in the vibrant atmosphere of Gubbio’s local markets, where the town’s culinary treasures come to life. The markets offer fresh produce and the chance to engage with local vendors and artisans. The majority of markets are open from 7:30 AM to 1:00 PM.

    TIP:  Go early, especially in high season, as the markets are very popular with locals and tourists alike and get crowded as the day progresses.

    When:  December 7th (on the eve of the feast of the Immaculate Conception) through the first week of January.

Assortment of Truffle items at the local store

View of Gubbio from Mount Ingino

Where to Stay

I stayed at the Hotel Relais Ducale in Gubbio and think it is an excellent option for a basic hotel in a perfect location.  It is located in the heart of town, provides beautiful views of Gubbio, and is a very good price point. 

A full review of the Hotel Relais Ducale can be found here.

Travel Tips

  • TIP: Consider staying for longer than one night and using Gubbio as a base for discovering Umbria.
  • TIP: Spend a day in Assisi (less than an hour drive) and even consider a Truffle Hunting Tour
  • TIP: If you can plan ahead to arrive in Gubbio for one of their holiday programs-it is worth it!
  • TIP: Don’t miss the Funicular experience – I have never seen anything like it!


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